The Dubai Aquarium

On July 2nd, Margaux and I headed off to the Dubai Aquarium with a couple of other Mums I'd met through playgroups and their tots.

The Aquarium is situated within the Dubai Mall, and is clearly identifiable by the multi-storey-high aquarium of fish and coral. Margaux was delighted to be able to finally enter the inside of the structure she had spent so long gazing at from the outside.

The fish fascinated her; the jellyfish terrified her; the starfish intrigued her; the octopus frightened her; and the King Croc (imported from Australia, no less!) was a bit too much to handle. She kept returning to one of the initial displays: a tank with massive goldfish-looking fish. I don't know what it was about them, but she couldn't get enough of them! In The Dubai Aquarium video you can see a bit of what I mean...

The King Croc, which weighs 750kg and is 5m long, is the prize possession of the aquarium... in keeping with Dubai's desire to have record-breaking everything, the croc doesn't disappoint.

It was a really enjoyable morning; Margaux was full of cries of delight and awe (and fear, depending on the display) as we passed from one fish tank to the next, and it was lovely for me to spend some time with some Mums outside of the soft play areas.

"She doesn't need to do the x-ray"

One innocuous afternoon in late June, Margaux and I headed off to a designated clinic to have my medical tests done - the final stage towards getting my UAE residency card.

I don't mean to complain, but it's important I feel to point out that it's always a bit of a hassle getting around with an infant. Since I don't drive it requires getting everything ready and then wandering around in the heat trying to hail a taxi driver, who will hopefully know where he's going. I always pack activities and food for Margaux, but it's a bit of a gamble as to whether either or both will be successful.

In the late morning on this day we met Thomas near his office to collect some final paperwork from him regarding the residency process, and Margaux took the opportunity to have her day-time nap in the pram. Personally, I would have preferred it while we were in the waiting room of the clinic, but I don't really have much of a say in when sleep takes over...

We eventually made our way to the clinic and waited around for what felt like forever with Margaux tearing around the waiting room, before I was called in to have my blood test done. I hate needles. Once that was over, all that was required was a quick chest x-ray (no idea why) and all would be done. Hooray!

There was just one brief form to fill before we did the x-ray: to declare upon my mother's grave and everything that I hold dear that I am not pregnant. Well. I knew I wasn't. I'd been pregnant before, so obviously I knew what it felt like. Yes, technically I could have been but I just wasn't. But, since I couldn't categorically say that I conclusively wasn't pregnant, the technician asked me to do a (ahem) urine test just to be sure. (If you are pregnant then you are exempt from the x-ray, due to possible damage to the foetus from radiation.)

So back Maggie and I went to the main building to request the test, only to discover that the lab shuts at 2:00pm. The time was 2:03. I'm not even exaggerating. No, it was absolutely impossible to do the test and have the results today. I pleaded my case, using Margaux as my prime leverage, but it was to no avail. I would just have to come back tomorrow.

That night I did a pregnancy test myself just to make sure, and the results were that I wasn't pregnant. No big surprise.

The next morning my intrepid companion and I headed back to the clinic for the fateful test. We waited about 15 minutes for the result, and then a lab technician came and said, "We're not certain of the results."
"Pardon me?"
"Well, there are traces of pregnancy in the urine."
"What do you mean, 'traces of pregnancy'? I can't be a little bit pregnant!"
"There are two options here: you come back first thing in the morning in two days' time and we can re-do the test then, or you can do a blood test now and come back tomorrow to find out the result."
"So I have to come back, no matter what."
"Yes."

Not wanting to risk a second ambiguous urine test result, I settled on the blood test.

The following day, for the third time in three days, Margaux and I made the trek out to the clinic. One of the men working there went to fetch the results. He returned and spoke directly to his colleague, not even acknowledging my presence, with the following, life-changing comment:
"She doesn't need to do the x-ray."
Me: "Hang on. What was that? Was that me you were talking about?"
"Yes."
"I don't need to do the x-ray? Because I'm... I'm... pregnant???"
"Yes."

All of a sudden I felt rather light-headed and like I was in an alternate reality. But what about the pregnancy test I'd done at home? Then I remembered that the same result had happened with Margaux, so maybe I shouldn't have been too surprised.

I didn't know where to stand or where to sit. Or what to think. Or anything, much. Margaux was disappointingly nonreactive to this news. And then I started thinking about all the implications... my mind was on overload. Yes, we'd been intending to expand the family, but I wasn't quite ready to find out. And especially not like this!

Of course I immediately called Thomas, who was over the moon about the finding. It was time to find some specialists.

Ramadan

In 2015, Ramadan began on June 18 and ended with Eid-al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) on July 17. The point of Ramadan is that the general observing Muslim population spends one and a quarter moon cycles appreciating the life of those who are on the poverty line (or at least really poor).

Ramadan happens at the same time every year on Islamic calendar (the 9th month), but as the Islamic calendar is lunar and the Gregorian one is solar, it appears to the western world to move forward about 11 days every year.

It is illegal - yes, illegal - to eat, drink, or smoke during daylight hours if you an observing Muslim. If you aren't observing but live in a Muslim country (like the UAE) it is still illegal to do any of the above in public, except in specially designated places. Some food courts have limited outlets open; others are closed entirely. Some hotels have a segregated dining area open, but this is covered with blackout curtains so that eating is invisible to the passing public. Some workplaces have a designated eating area for non-Muslims; others don't and the employees are forced to sneak into the bathroom with their bottle of water!

 

 

This sign reads:

One can consume food only inside this designated area.

It is not permitted to eat or drink in any of the mall's corridors.

In case a person is found eating in public places, legal action will be taken and fines will be levied.

Eating in this area is restricted to non-fasting and kids only starting at 12:00 noon.

 

There is also a real spirit of giving during this time. And, since those fasting will be feeling more irritable and tired due to their lack of food and water, everyone is encouraged to be more considerate towards others. It is also a time for dressing more modestly, engaging in more prayer/ reflection, not playing loud music, and not showing any public displays of affection.

 

Observing Muslims who are exempt from Ramadan are the poor, the elderly, the disabled, children, and pregnant women. And women who are menstruating. Those people who are temporarily incapacitated are encouraged to observe Ramadan at another time; it is suggested to the rest that they give financially to a charity or generally act in a charitable manner during this holy time.

 

Working hours for Muslims - and, depending on the workplace, all employees - are truncated during this period. Those fasting shouldn't drive at sundown or other times when they are feeling particularly tired.

 

All of this is very interesting and I was really happy to be on observer of such a culture for this time. Unfortunately for Thomas, his workplace issued a memo with adjusted hours for observing Muslims and no change for the others. Margaux I think was fairly oblivious to the whole thing. I was affected because I had just discovered I was pregnant (more about this to come!) so I was a) ravenous every waking moment, b) not looking like I was pregnant, and c) unable to tell anyone about it. There was a lot of sneaky eating and drinking on my part!

 

Dubai becomes a bit of a ghost town during Ramadan - especially when it's in summer - because the temperature soars to 40+*C daily and is really humid. Compound that with the fact that you can't even drink water between 07:00-19:15, and you have a population keen to be elsewhere!

 

Taken on July 9, 2015...

 

 



Overnight in Fujairah

On June 27 we intrepid three headed off for a night away from the commercialism of Dubai. Our destination was Fujairah, a village on the east coast of the UAE.

Delightfully, the hotel we were staying at was on the beachfront (although there wasn't much point being there if it wasn't to at least have a view of the ocean), so we made the most of the pools and beach.

There was an outdoor play area, which Maggie and I briefly braved and decided against, and a much more summertime user-friendly indoor play area, which we spent some more enjoyable time in.

Here's a little video to summarise our time there: Overnight in Fujairah and of course some photos... :)

Thomas and I snuck away for a quiet meal together and spent our precious 'us-time' pouring over the most recent plans for our Project, as provided by Helene. It's been really fun as the plans evolve, and we've had some wonderful brainstorming sessions together.

By the following day we were feeling thoroughly refreshed and ready to take on Dubai again, so back to the Big Smoke we headed...

A Margaux photo montage

Since I'm only writing about the major happenings during our time in Dubai there are a lot of adorable photos I have of Margaux that have no home... and it's been a while since I did a photo montage of her.

So here we are...

Margaux has discovered the joy of putting things on her head - whether they be headbands, undies, or floaties... if it fits, it counts as head gear!

Did you know that it's possible to sleep and eat mango simultaneously? I don't have the footage here because, well, it's potentially embarrassing and that's not the point of the blog, but Margaux has successfully had a catnap while eating the flesh from around a mango seed. Incredible.

Now, on to the next adventure!

Getaway to Oman

We settled into life in The Greens (as the suburb is called) relatively easily... Thomas predictably headed off to work and Margaux and I spent part of almost every weekday at an indoor play area. It was simply too hot to do ANYTHING remotely outside, and it's no fun being cooped up in a little apartment all day.

Due to the huge gaps of time between then and now - and the fact that photos are much more interesting than text - I'm going to focus on the outstanding activities and adventures we had, starting with a short sojourn to Oman!

One unfortunate aspect of Thomas working in Dubai for a company based in Oman was that he was required to travel to Muscat (the capital) on a fortnightly basis. Usually it was just for a couple of days, but on one occasion in June he was required to spend the week there... Miss M and I took up his invitation of spending a long weekend with him from June 5-9, where we had a great time exploring Muscat and beyond - though briefly.

We made the most of the hotel pool and also had a swim at the Dive Centre, which is actually a private beach. Despite the fact that the ocean water is supposedly cooler in Oman than the UAE, I can verify that in summer they are equally bath-like!

The bath-like beach:

 

 

 

The delightfully temperature-controlled hotel pool: 7:30am and already 36* outside!

On the Friday we went to a highly recommended souk (also spelled souq - it's Arabic for market) in a little village called Nizwa, a couple of hours' drive from Muscat. Unfortunately we went just as the market was closing, which was also in the heat of the day - and we're talking 41*C here! - and was the start of the midday call to prayer. Still, having made it that far we were determined to see what we could.

Friday is the holy day of the week for Muslims, so everything basically shuts down from midday onwards.

Anyway, here is a little collage of our trip there. In the picture with the text 'date souk' all of the bags are filled with, unsurprisingly, dates. I never realised how much of an industry it is here, but it seems to be about the only fruit-bearing vegetation that exists naturally here so I suppose it shouldn't be that much of a surprise.

We managed to miss the goat sales (can't say I was too disappointed at that) but there were a couple of mangy looking goats wandering around.

 

 

We were staggered that the village still existed... it's a bit hard to tell from the photos, but the old buildings are seemingly made of mud and rocks that have been crudely shaped into walls and doorways. There must be something in it though, because they have survived the sun and sandstorms for all those years.

 

Anyway... beyond the buildings and dates, we saw some lovely native pottery, a fruit and vege section that was closing, and some stunning views over the mountain range that surrounds Nizwa.

 

While Thomas was at work Margaux busied herself by very successfully charming all of the hotel staff. She and I spent part of a day at the famous Muttrah Souk. We haggled (me) and charmed (Margaux) and were undoubtedly ripped off, but I console myself with the fact that we could have been ripped off more so.

 

We stuck out like sore thumbs amongst the sea of people in traditional dress - especially with Maggie's blonde mop - but it was great soaking up the atmosphere. It has so many different areas to explore - fabric and traditional clothes shops; sheathed daggers; gold and silver jewellery; tacky, plastic toys and homewares; Omani touristy souvenirs; incense and perfumes; and trinkets of every other imaginable kind.

 

 

On our last night there together, Thomas and I made use of the hotel's babysitting service and he treated me to an unforgettable meal at the luxury hotel The Chedi. Bliss! On top of the amazing meal, it was wonderful to walk around outside... I didn't realise how much I'd missed seeing stars until I saw them that night.

 

 

 

Margaux and I bade farewell to Thomas a couple of days later and took the thankfully short flight back to Dubai without a hitch.

 

Apartment 2002, Golf Tower 2

After a few days of hot, fruitless searching in various suburbs across Dubai with an assortment of real estate agents Margaux and I were trumped by Thomas. He came back from work via an apartment viewing and proceeded to describe a brilliant place he'd just viewed. Upon his description certain elements began to sound surprisingly familiar, and when he suggested I go and see it, I replied, "I don't need to - you've just described Hannah's place, which I love!"

And so we happily moved in to Golf Tower 2, just a few floors above our new friends.

It's in an area close to the Dubai Marina, with views across a swanky golf course (hence the building name) and the sea on the horizon. It's full of light, which is particularly awesome if you have curtains... we got as far as hanging some up in Margaux's room, but haven't quite managed to do so with ours. I sleep with an eye mask on, in case you were wondering...

It's a bit hard to tell from these photos, but the main photo and the top two photos on the right form a bit of a panorama from the living area looking out. The sea is on the horizon, but you have a to squint a bit - or just trust me. Then there's the swimming pool that services Towers 1, 2, and the villas, but we swim there every day and usually meet the same crowd... We have a lovely routine of Thomas taking Margaux down when he gets home from work... he seems to meet a lot of people out at that time with their respective toddlers, giving the kids a final opportunity to expend their leftover energy and hopefully sleep through the night!

And the final photo is of a lake basically at the bottom of the Towers, which is bordered by a path that leads to the local community village. There you can find a supermarket, pharmacy, a couple of cafes, 2 beauty parlours, a bookshop, a couple of restaurants, and an optician. Perfect!

I've just realised that the bottom photos also form a bit of a panorama... you can see the little fountain in the top right hand corner of the left photo, located in the bottom left hand corner of the right photo... if that makes sense.

Anyway, that's the view.

This collage encompasses moving in over a few days... I don't know why Margaux was wearing the skeleton of a lampshade as a hat, but it was hilarious.

So there it is! Our lovely home.

As for the outside... Well, if it's before about 09:00 then I can take Margaux out for a swim or a play, but after that it gets too hot. We have had a routine of Thomas taking Maggie down for a swim when he returns from work, which we've all enjoyed. Most of our friends in this building have come from encounters by the pool or in the lift; it's been wonderful to have a number of other friends with young kids who come from such a multitude of backgrounds... we all understand without needing to express it the pluses and minuses of moving away from home, ostensibly as a trailing spouse, with at least one kid under your wing. That's quite special.

This collage shows the lovely walk around the lake to the shops near our apartment, plus the three swimming pools and the outdoor area:

Here's a little video of Maggie on the outdoor play equipment: The self-entertainer (outside) - taken before she stacked it down the brick steps and ended up with a lump the size of an egg on her forehead. Poor thing.